Liard Hot Springs
Alert!! Limited WiFi and Cell signal means it’s really hard to upload pics. For more regular highlights, check out our Instagram @2Explorers_and-dog (that hyphen should be a second underscore, but the program is being cranky).
Day: 8
Mileage daily: 64 km
Mileage total: 1780 km
Campsite: Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park site #19
Services: pit toilet, hand-pump water and water at the front gate
Cell signal: none...for hours!
Cost: $26 including entrance to the hot springs
Today we said goodbye to Keith’s Fitbit. He forgot to pack his charger so now he is now untethered! Let’s see how many times he looks at his naked wrist! Heehee 🤣
Another morning with sprinkles, but they quickly cleared. Seems like that is a pattern out here. I’ve stopped worrying about the weather forecast now. It makes it a challenge to keep the tent room dry, but all in all, not a problem. Another morning coffee lakeside - damn, I could get used to this! Our destination today is close by, but we’ve heard that Liard PP fills up fast. On the road by 9:30am.
There are signs and warnings about Wood Buffalo. The signs are the same size as all the other fauna, but the outline of the buffalo fills the sign. A few minutes later we had proof that these critters are HUGE! We saw three of them between Lake Muncho and Liard. Just shy of the big bridge across the Liard River there is a turn to the right that Fiona told us about. We’ll check it out tomorrow.
SOOOOooooo glad we planned to arrive at Liard PP early. Half the place is reservation only. The other half is first come, first served (FCFS). A quick turn through the campground showed less that 6 sites still available. They were gone by noon. We have a great site! Most are wooded, but we chose more of an open site so we can maximize the use of our solar panel when the sun is out. It is on the outside of the loop with a LOT of space between us and others, so it is still quite private. The birds are everywhere! A woodpecker (Hairy, I think) just pulled up next to us and hammered away! So many others flitting about. But the best thing is the hot springs.
The hot springs are Simply Amazing! Keith still ranks the Polynesian hot springs in Rotarua, New Zealand as number one and places Iceland’s Secret Garden in Fluvia as number 2 and then this one as equivalent. For me, this one was by far the best. I think that shows how differences in preferences influence rankings. So what was the difference? I ranked natural environment > minimal sulfur smell > Lack of crowds > features (accessibility, safety, etc) > variable water temperature > amenities. Keith ranks amenities > variable temperature > features > minimal sulfur smell > natural environment > lack of crowds. Sorry Banff, you are down the list for both of us.
Take home - the Liard Hot Springs are epic!
Day: 9
Mileage daily: 10 km
Mileage total: 1790 km
Campsite: Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park site #19
Services: pit toilet, hand-pump water and water at the front gate
Cell signal: none...for hours!
Cost: $26 including entrance to the hot springs
Woke around 9am to some rustling outside the tent and thought, “some pesky rodent”. Well I was almost right. The rodent is a 150 lb black bear. We are across from the bathroom and toilets and that lovely open campsite...surrounded by raspberries! Our neighbors from the A-liner (Frank and Karen) came by a little bit later to tell us about the bear that walked by and then tucked into the brush/woods about 10 feet from us. That explained Kayenne’s intense interest in the brush behind us!! They have been setting off alert shots all morning. It is a good reminder to keep all food inside and maintain a clean campsite!
Had a great conversation with Frank and Karen. Turns out Karen knows Walheed, a cardiologist in Calgary! We may not cross paths with them again, as they left today and will be deviating once they hit Whitehorse. They met some guys at the hot springs who have an off the grid cabin at Salmon Lake. They were invited to join them at their property and go jet boating on the Yukon River as well as fish. Great people!!
The bird watching here is fabulous! I pulled out the binoculars and just watched around us. Lots of activity! There was a wee squirrel stuffing himself with raspberries as well as pair of Western Tanagers. Spent hours watching them.
Took a quick spin down to the Liard River, passing a trio of Wood buffalo on the way. We put Kayenne on her e-collar and let her run! She took off, enjoying the sand, rocks and river’s edge. After a nice walk, we came back and tucked into another soak in the hot springs. AAHHHHHhhhh! So nice.
We decided to add another night! That’s the beauty of an open itinerary! Ya like it? You stay. You don’t, you move along.
Day: 10
Mileage daily: 30 km
Mileage total: 1820 km
Campsite: Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park site #19
Services: pit toilet, hand-pump water and water at the front gate
Cell signal: none...for hours!
Cost: $26 including entrance to the hot springs
Steel cut oats — I love them but who has 30 minutes to make the darned things? By some miracle, Keith found a brand that claimed less than 10 minutes. I whipped them up and sure enough, they are perfect!! I love the texture. A bit of honey and some cinnamon and we were set. Even gave a bit to Kayenne. She gobbled them up.
We learned more about our errant campground bear. They are using bangers to keep the bear out of the campground. Problem is, it scared the beastie so bad he climbed a tree. As he came down, they set off another banger and up another tree he went. That explains why there were so many bangers yesterday. Eventually they got him to move along.
Sun showers and Mushrooms defined our afternoon. A quick stroll to the wee cascade on Teeter Creek was just enough to stretch Kayenne’s legs. She ran through the trail, played in the creek and explored. There were mushrooms everywhere. One old uprooted tree was home to an abundance of them. I have no idea what kind they were, but we took pics! Shoot now, identify later...maybe.
After our stroll, we hit the hot springs again. The sulfur smell was a bit stronger today and it was HOT! We are going to miss this place. We decided to pack up the tent room this evening since it was dry. With the constant scattered showers, it seemed a good plan. Mold is no ones friend. Okay, penicillin gets a pass, but you know what I mean!
Wildlife alert: The roadside is rich with wildlife, that’s for sure. Today it was more wood buffalo, a red fox and a bear.
